The Eyes Have It!

Ahh, the eyeshadow question! So many women I meet want to get into eye makeup but they have no clue how to even begin properly applying eyeshadow. And let's not even get into using colors! To me, the eyes are probably the most important feature on the face, and they need to be played up as much as possible. No matter what type of makeup look you are going for, you always want to make sure your eyes stand out. You can achieve this through the use of eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, false lashes, or a combination of all of these components. I want to focus on eyeshadow because it is one of those things that frustrates so many women in the makeup application process. However, by putting some simple principles into practice you can create some very beautiful (and basic) looks to accentuate your peepers!

Your goal with eye makeup should be to open up, lift, and make the eyes appear their most youthful and alluring. You want to take into consideration a few important things:

• eye shape
• eye color

Understanding your eye shape and color will help you choose colors and products (and product placement on the eye itself) that really enhances your natural beauty.

When it comes to basic eyeshadow application, you want to achieve two things:

1. Visually "pushing away" the areas you don't want to see and "bringing forward" the areas you want to emphasize.

2. Define and open up your eyes.

Proper eye makeup application will make your eyes appear more open and alert. 

The techniques for eyeshadow application basically revolve around three components: a highlight color, midtone color, and a contour shade. The general rule to remember is that highlighting brings planes of the face (and eye) visually forward, while contouring is for darkening and receding areas. Though there are literally thousands of eyeshadow shades to choose from, for starters, use the three-shade application technique. It will enhance your most beautiful features and keep the focus on your eyes.

Your highlight shade is the lightest shade of the three shadows and everything you highlight visually comes forward. This shade can vary from more to less dramatic depending on the look you are going for. Matte finish eyeshadows are much more subtle than shimmery finishes. A good highlight shade I recommend is a neutral beige or light cream shade that borders on off-white. Once you've chosen a highlight color, apply it to your brow bone (the area immediately underneath the arch of your eyebrow) and your eyelid using a large flat eyeshadow brush. DO NOT apply this color from your lash line to your brow. In addition, add a little of this color to the tear duct area of your eye and along the inner one third of your lower lash line.

Next up is your midtone shade, which is generally a neutral brown that is a little darker than your skin tone. This shade is deeper than your highlight color but not as dark as your contour color. A good recommendation for a midtone shade would be MAC's soft brown, cork, or texture eyeshadows. These three are all midtone browns. This color is great for blending out the area between your lid and brow, providing a great transition for pretty much any color because it is neutral. You will apply this shade in the crease of your eye (the area right where the crease of your eyelid forms), from the outer corner of the eye inward, using a windshield wiper motion, combined with circular brush strokes. A great brush for this is a MAC #217 or #224 brush. Any rounded crease brush will work for applying this shade. Also sweep some of this color along your lower lash line.

Finally, there is the contour shade, which is used to create more dimension and give the eye more depth. This color would be darker than your midtone. Dark chocolate browns, black, or a deep purple are excellent shades for contouring the eye. I recommend MAC eyeshadows in espresso, carbon, and shadowy lady, for example. For contouring the eye, I  use a smaller, pointier bristled crease brush such as the MAC #219 pencil brush to add precision definition in the outer "v" area of the eye using tight circular motions, almost dotting the dark color into that outer crease to create more depth. Your goal should always be to have a smooth graduation of color with no harsh lines. By layering your contour shade on top of your midtone shade and blending well, you will get that smooth, well-blended, defined look you want. You can also add some of the darkest shade along the lower lash line to define your eyes after applying eyeliner to the waterline or inner rim of the eye. You can use a smudge brush to blend that lower lash line to smoky perfection! Add mascara and you are ready to go, with eyes that pop and get alot of attention.

As with anything, perfect practice makes perfect when it comes to becoming proficient in eye makeup application. But over time, with the right tools, and consistency you will feel more comfortable. Start with neutral brown shades and progress to colors if you like. Makeup should be fun so don't be scared to play around with eyeshadows and see what looks you come up with! 

Sculpting Your Face with Contouring and Highlighting

One of the things I love about makeup is that it allows you to create and add depth and dimension to every feature of your face. Whether it is deepening the crease of your eye or making your cheekbones stand out, the possibilities are endless when it comes to creating new looks for yourself. Sculpting your face through contouring is one of those techniques that allows you to take your makeup game to the next level. Instead of just having a flat canvas to paint on, contouring allows you to highlight and sculpt your face in a way that is nothing less than beautiful, when done right. With the right application of products, you can achieve defined features on your own.

The goal of contouring is to ultimately make your face appear to be more oval shaped. In fact, any face shape can be contoured to look more oval just by applying foundation in varying shades, along with powder. For instructional purposes, commit to memory the following terms and their definitions:

·     Highlighting - lightening certain areas of the face so that they "come forward."

·    Contouring -  darkening certain areas of the face so that they appear to recede.

 By sculpting your face with makeup, you bring emphasis to the areas of your face that you want noticed, and minimize those that you don't. Minimizing the fullness around the outer edges of your face, for example, makes your face look slimmer and gives depth. To sculpt your face you will need to select three shades of foundation or foundation and a lighter concealer and a darker sculpting cream.

1. The first shade should match your skin exactly.

2. The second color, your highlight color, should be at least one level lighter than your foundation color.

3. The third shade, your contour color, should be one to two levels darker than your first shade.

If you want a more dramatic, pronounced contour, use three shades with more contrast between them. Darker skins that want more dramatic contouring can achieve this by choosing a highlight color that is 2 to three shades lighter than their exact match foundation and a deep colored powder for contouring. Remember that the more dramatic the contrast, the more meticulous you have to be about blending. Follow these steps for sculpting:

1. With an angled foundation or cream blush brush apply your contour shade to edges of your hairline, the hollows of your cheeks, or under your cheekbones from your hairline downward (purse your lips as if you are making a kissy face, but do not suck your cheeks in like a fish. Your face does not naturally look that way and you don't have to make that face to locate the hollows of your cheeks). Also, apply this shade down the sides of your nose to give a slimming effect and bring the product up to the eye socket, underneath the eyebrow. 

2. Apply your highlight color, which would be your lighter foundation shade, or concealer, under the eyes, down the bridge of the nose and a little bit on the forehead, and on the chin, as well as under the cheek contour. 

3. With your brush and your fingers if needed, begin to blend the contour colors out so that there are no harsh lines. 

4. After you have softend the contour, with a foundation brush begin to buff your true match foundation shade onto your face, taking care to seamlessly blend the foundation into the contour areas to create a smooth transition between the contour and highlight. 

5. Set your concealer under the eyes with a lighter powder such as Ben Nye Banana powder, with a sponge wedge.

6. Apply a powder to your face to set your foundation, in a shade that matches your skin tone. If you want, you can also add a sculpting powder with an angled blush brush to the contour areas of the cheeks for a little more definition. Add a pop of blush on the apples of your cheeks for a fresh glow!

Contouring is not difficult once you get the hang of it. The more you practice, the more you will become proficient in this amazing face sculpting technique. Give it a try!

Clarisonic Skin Brush Review!

It's a new year and a great time to revamp your skincare routine, particularly during the dry winter months. I recently purchased the Clarisonic cleansing brush and am excited about it! My first introduction to the Clarisonic skin care system was during a facial at Natural Body Spa in Atlanta, where I go to get my monthly facials. My aesthetician had not always used it so the first time she did I was pleasantly surprised! I went ahead and got one so I could continue using it at home. The Clarisonic Mia brush is essentially a brush for your skin. It features rotating bristles that buff, polish, exfoliate, and cleanse your skin in an extremely effective manner. It costs about $120 but I can say that it is definitely worth the investment. If you care about your skin and maintaining a clear and flawless complexion, get this beauty tool!

As a makeup artist, I know firsthand the importance of proper skin care. As I've said before, makeup is an enhancer, but it doesn't solve skin issues that result from improper care and maintenance. In fact, without proper skincare, makeup doesn't look good on your skin. The objective with makeup (specifically foundation) is to smooth out the complexion and even out any areas of discoloration. Now, we know that makeup does hide imperfections, and it is used for that purpose; however, the better state your skin is in to begin with, the less foundation you really have to use. This starts with a basic regimen of cleansing, exfoliating, toning, and moisturizing on a daily basis. If you wear makeup regularly, you want to be especially diligent in maintaining your routine.

I have been using my Clarisonic face brush for about a week and, while my skin was already clear and in good condition, i've noticed it looks even brighter and smoother in must one week of using the brush. It comes with it's own Clarisonic cleanser that you can use with the brush, or you can use any other gel-type cleanser, which is the only consistency of cleanser that is recommended for use with the brush. You have to charge the brush for 24 hours and it's ready to go. To use, you wet your face and lather up the soap on your face. Wet the bristles under running water, press the on button and proceed to give your face the best skin massage ever! Using the brush in circular motions over the different areas of your face, you want to cleanse your forehead for 20 seconds, your cheeks for 10 seconds, and nose and chin for 10 seconds as well. When you're done, rinse your face and rinse the brush and let it air dry. The brush, which detaches from the handle, should be replaced every 3 months.

I noticed after using this amazing beauty brush that my skin felt squeaky clean and even smoother after use, than when I was simply using my regular facial soap and lather routine. All traces of makeup are removed, which is critical for me because I wear makeup daily and I had started to break out a little along my jaw line, probably because I wasn't fully getting those areas with my previous cleansing routine. The Clarisonic system knocks out cleansing and exfoliating in one step. After that all I have to do is tone and moisturize!

All in all, this product is a must for your skin care routine. My brush only features one speed, but there are ones that feature two and three speeds for even more intense exfoliation. If beautiful, clear, fresh skin is your goal, you NEED the Clarisonic. Stay beautiful!