Monday, September 24, 2012

Concealer: Taking Years Off Your Appearance

One of the most important makeup products you want to have in your beauty arsenal is concealer. It lightens and brightens areas of your face that are darker than others and it takes years off your appearance. I have had so many clients who were shocked at how different they looked with proper concealer application and how it enhanced their entire face. If you don't have a good concealer, you definitely want to get one.

When choosing a concealer, you want to use the same shade as your foundation, or a shade that is one shade lighter. For extremely dark discoloration, opt for a shade that is actually two levels lighter than your foundation. Going too light can cause you to look ashy and/or gray. You want to choose a concealer that has yellow undertones because it is the best choice for covering discolorations such as dark circles under the eyes, age spots, and redness. This is particularly true for ivory/beige skin. Deeper skin tones also do well with golden orange undertoned concealer or warm brown undertoned concealer.

People apply their concealer in different ways, but for me (and on my clients), I apply concealer after I apply foundation. I like to have the base of the foundation in place and build all other products up after that. So I apply foundation first and then I apply concealer using an airbrush concealer brush which allows me to buff and blend it into the skin for a natural look and seamless transition into the foundation. After applying concealer to areas that I want to highlight such as under the eyes, the bridge of the nose, the forehead, and the chin, I set the concealer with a yellow loose powder using a cosmetic wedge. I then knock excess powder off the skin using a brush, which leaves a clean even look.

As an artist who is constantly trying new products I have found several concealers that are excellent, in my opinion. They are:


  • MAC Pro Longwear Concealer (a long lasting, water resistant liquid concealer)
  • MAC Studio Fix Concealer (a cream to powder formula that applies wonderfully)
  • Dermablend Smooth Indulgence Concealer (a liquid with complete, waterproof coverage)
  • Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer (a creamy full-coverage formula that gives wonderful natural coverage)
Be sure to invest in a couple good concealer brushes such as an airbrush concealer brush and a flat concealer brush. Both enable smooth, flawless application of concealer products. Try some of the above mentioned products and watch your face transform! 


Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Foundation Basics

The first step to achieving flawless looking skin is, of course, your skin care routine. I have done clients whose skin was in bad condition and the products I used were able to conceal to an extent, but when you're dealing with texture issues, those things are never fully erased simply by applying some foundation. The better condition your skin is in, the more flawless it will look when you do apply foundation, so make skin care your priority through regular cleansing, exfoliating, toning, moisturizing, and sunscreen. In addition, invest in your facial skin by getting facials at least once a month. With that being said, foundation is an important step in your makeup routine when it comes to obtaining the look of absolutely flawless skin. The word "foundation" says it all. It is the baseline level upon which you build your makeup look. Knowing how to choose the right foundation for you is essential.

There are several things to consider when choosing a foundation such as what color is the undertone of your skin (olive, yellow, pink, golden, orange, or warm brown), what is the depth level of your skin (pale to deep shades), what is your skin type (oily, dry, combination, or normal), how much coverage do you want (sheer, medium, or full), and what kind of finish do you want your foundation to give your skin (matte, satin, dewy, or luminous). If you are unsure of your undertone or depth level of your skin, it is a good idea to visit a cosmetics counter such as MAC or Bobbi Brown and have a makeup artist assess your tones and give a product recommendation.

When you are trying to find the best shade of foundation for your skin tone, the stripe test is the way to go. In fact, this test will show you the exact shade that is best for you. The stripe test is done by applying a stripe of foundation from your jaw down onto your neck. You want to make sure the foundation matches the color of your neck, which will preven the dreaded masked look that we see so often on women whose foundation shade does not match their tone and doesn't extend past their jawline. You want to start by applying three different foundation shades and wait a few minutes to see if the oils in your skin change the pigments, which can happen. Select the shade that most closely matches your face and neck color. You want to conduct this test in natural light as much as possible.

When it comes to determining your undertones, a great way to tell is to look at the skin on the inside of your arm. Because this area is less prone to discoloration, it is a good place to look to determine your true undertone. If you have ivory/beige skin, you will typically have one of three basic undertones: olive, yellow, or pink. One of the most common mistakes that women with ivory/beige skin make is choosing a foundation that has too much of a pink undertone, which actually has an aging effect. A  yellow undertone foundation actually is the best choice for beige/ivory skin because it warms the skin a bit and adds a little color. Deeper skin tones undertones can range from yellow to golden orange to true brown. The depth level of the skin is how light or dark it appears to the naked eye. The paler you are, the lighter the depth level; the darker the skin, the deeper the depth. You never want to choose a foundation that is too light or too dark.

Foundations have truly come a long way. Many women are scared of wearing foundation because they think it is going to give then a pancake effect; however today's formulations are so vast and advanced that the "pancake" effect is not the norm. There are foundations that come in a variety of coverages, which you can determine which is best for your needs. Consider your skin type as well. Oily skins can benefit from an oil-free foundation and dry skins will do well with one that has more moisture. There are foundations that deliver a more matte finish while others give a slight dewy glow. The newest craze is BB Creams (beauty balms), which give beautiful sheer coverage and even the skin tone, while delivering a barely-there finish and a subtle glow. Most foundations are buildable, which means you can add more or less product to achieve the look you want. There are liquids, creams, powders, and gel-like foundations which gives you a variety of options. You should definitely stop by a cosmetics counter and play with different products to find out what you like.

Remember that the tools you use to apply your foundation are critical to the level of flawlessness you get. I recommend investing in a quality foundation brush. Another wonderful foundation applicator is the beauty blender sponge, which you use to kind of bounce the foundation all over your skin. It gives one of the best foundation finishes I have seen.

I am always trying new products to see what I like the best, and right now my top three foundation recommendations are:
  • Makeup Forever HD Foundation
  • MAC Matchmaster Foundation
  • MAC Studio Fix Foundation
These three foundations I have found to give excellent, buildable coverage and long lasting wear that stays all day, especially when used with setting powder and setting spray such as Urban Decay Deslick Oil Control Setting Spray. Give them a try!