Eyebrows are Everything!

Anyone who knows me knows that I LOVE great eyebrows. To me, your eyebrows are THE most important aspect of your beauty look, after having flawless looking skin. A well-groomed brow not only frames your eyes but it complements your entire face. On the other hand, eyebrows that are not shaped, badly shaped, or badly highlighted absolutely destroy your look! In my opinion, your face isn't complete if your eyebrows aren't done.

Before you reach for your tweezers, consider this CRITICAL advice: adhere to your natural eyebrow shape! Too often you see people with their eyebrows completely tweezed off and then drawn in (not a good look) or they've created an eyebrow shaped that looks completely unnatural. Your natural eyebrow shape should be your guideline when it comes to tweezing, waxing, or threading, as well as your blueprint for how you fill your eyebrows in with pencil or eyebrow powder. When you veer away from your natural brow shape, you run the risk of creating an eyebrow disaster so keep that in mind when you are getting them done or doing them yourself. Some people's eyebrows are naturally thicker than others, but that's okay. You can still get a beautiful eyebrow look if you stick to your natural shape and build around that.

The first step to eyebrow beauty is keeping them shaped and cleaned up. There are several methods you can use to do this. You can tweeze your brows, get them waxed, threaded, or cleaned up with an eyebrow razor. I prefer threading because it does not remove the top layer of your skin or pull and tug at the delicate skin around your eyes like waxing does. While it can be uncomfortable for a few minutes, the results are well worth the pinch! Waxing does the job as well, but it can do damage to the skin around your eyes in the long run and change the texture of your skin. Tweezing is a good option if you just want to clean up stray hairs, and razoring is also good but doesn't last as long because it doesn't pull the hair out from the roots. I am a huge proponent of threading and I encourage you to try it at least once. When you get your brows done, let the technician know you just want to clean up your brows and keep the natural shape. This is the best way to ensure that you keep the basic blueprint of your brows while shaping them well. Then, you can fill them in with pencil and powder later.

Once you get your eyebrows cleaned up through the method of your choice, it is time to fill them in. A great way to determine where your eyebrow should start is to hold a pencil vertically against the side of your noce and notice where the top of the pencil meets your brow. This is where your brow should begin. To determine where the arch of the brow should be, hold the pencil against your nostril and move it diagonally across the outer half of the iris of your eye. Notice where the top of the pencil meets your brow. This is the best place for the peak of your arch. The brow should be gently tapered from the peak of the arch to the end of the eyebrow. And finally, the end of the eyebrow can be determined by placing the pencil against your nostril and extending it diagonally to the outer corner of your eye. Where it meets the brow is the best place for your eyebrow to end. This is also where your taper should be the thinnest.

When I do my eyebrows I start by using an eyebrow brush to brush the hairs first upward and then in the direction of my natural brow shape. I then take an eyebrow pencil and lightly fill in any sparse areas, LIGHTLY drawing in any areas where i want definition, with short strokes. I then apply eyebrow powder with an angled eyebrow brush and pull the product through the brow from the innermost part of the brow through the tapered end. My final step is applying concealer below and above the eyebrow with a precision concealer brush to achieve a clean, sharp edge below and above the brow. When you apply concealer, make sure you use a buffing brush or rounded concealer brush to blend your concealer out. You do not want what appears to be a white line above and below your eyebrow! Blending is the key when applying concealer to "carve" and highlight your brows.

Here are some tips for doing your brows:

• Don't over tweeze. Overtweezing will cause you to lose your natural eyebrow shape and you will be more likely to draw your brows in and create a shape that looks unnatural and is not complementary.
• Avoid making boxy eyebrows. This is the eyebrow that looks very square and boxy. This is not a natural looking eyebrow.
• Use concealer to lightly blend into the inner most part of your eyebrow, especially if you use a darker eyebrow pencil. This makes a soft transition from your skin to the hair, in the innermost part of your brow rather than the harsh boxy inner brow look that looks like your eyebrow has been "stuck" on your face rather than hair that is a part of your face naturally.
• BLEND your concealer out! Concealer product applied under and above your brow for highlighting purposes should be well blended and seamlessly transition into your foundation. We should not see a line of demarcation between your concealer and the rest of your face.
• Use eyebrow pencil and powder that most closely matches your natural hair color, unless you are specifically going for an alternative look or want to lighten your brows.

Hopefully these tips gave you some valuable pointers on how your eyebrows can enhance (or detract from) your overall look.

Concealer: Taking Years Off Your Appearance

One of the most important makeup products you want to have in your beauty arsenal is concealer. It lightens and brightens areas of your face that are darker than others and it takes years off your appearance. I have had so many clients who were shocked at how different they looked with proper concealer application and how it enhanced their entire face. If you don't have a good concealer, you definitely want to get one.

When choosing a concealer, you want to use the same shade as your foundation, or a shade that is one shade lighter. For extremely dark discoloration, opt for a shade that is actually two levels lighter than your foundation. Going too light can cause you to look ashy and/or gray. You want to choose a concealer that has yellow undertones because it is the best choice for covering discolorations such as dark circles under the eyes, age spots, and redness. This is particularly true for ivory/beige skin. Deeper skin tones also do well with golden orange undertoned concealer or warm brown undertoned concealer.

People apply their concealer in different ways, but for me (and on my clients), I apply concealer after I apply foundation. I like to have the base of the foundation in place and build all other products up after that. So I apply foundation first and then I apply concealer using an airbrush concealer brush which allows me to buff and blend it into the skin for a natural look and seamless transition into the foundation. After applying concealer to areas that I want to highlight such as under the eyes, the bridge of the nose, the forehead, and the chin, I set the concealer with a yellow loose powder using a cosmetic wedge. I then knock excess powder off the skin using a brush, which leaves a clean even look.

As an artist who is constantly trying new products I have found several concealers that are excellent, in my opinion. They are:

• MAC Pro Longwear Concealer (a long lasting, water resistant liquid concealer)
• MAC Studio Fix Concealer (a cream to powder formula that applies wonderfully)
• Dermablend Smooth Indulgence Concealer (a liquid with complete, waterproof coverage)
• Bobbi Brown Creamy Concealer (a creamy full-coverage formula that gives wonderful natural coverage)

Be sure to invest in a couple good concealer brushes such as an airbrush concealer brush and a flat concealer brush. Both enable smooth, flawless application of concealer products. Try some of the above mentioned products and watch your face transform! 

Foundation Basics

The first step to achieving flawless looking skin is, of course, your skin care routine. I have done clients whose skin was in bad condition and the products I used were able to conceal to an extent, but when you're dealing with texture issues, those things are never fully erased simply by applying some foundation. The better condition your skin is in, the more flawless it will look when you do apply foundation, so make skin care your priority through regular cleansing, exfoliating, toning, moisturizing, and sunscreen. In addition, invest in your facial skin by getting facials at least once a month. With that being said, foundation is an important step in your makeup routine when it comes to obtaining the look of absolutely flawless skin. The word "foundation" says it all. It is the baseline level upon which you build your makeup look. Knowing how to choose the right foundation for you is essential.

There are several things to consider when choosing a foundation such as what color is the undertone of your skin (olive, yellow, pink, golden, orange, or warm brown), what is the depth level of your skin (pale to deep shades), what is your skin type (oily, dry, combination, or normal), how much coverage do you want (sheer, medium, or full), and what kind of finish do you want your foundation to give your skin (matte, satin, dewy, or luminous). If you are unsure of your undertone or depth level of your skin, it is a good idea to visit a cosmetics counter such as MAC or Bobbi Brown and have a makeup artist assess your tones and give a product recommendation.

When you are trying to find the best shade of foundation for your skin tone, the stripe test is the way to go. In fact, this test will show you the exact shade that is best for you. The stripe test is done by applying a stripe of foundation from your jaw down onto your neck. You want to make sure the foundation matches the color of your neck, which will preven the dreaded masked look that we see so often on women whose foundation shade does not match their tone and doesn't extend past their jawline. You want to start by applying three different foundation shades and wait a few minutes to see if the oils in your skin change the pigments, which can happen. Select the shade that most closely matches your face and neck color. You want to conduct this test in natural light as much as possible.

When it comes to determining your undertones, a great way to tell is to look at the skin on the inside of your arm. Because this area is less prone to discoloration, it is a good place to look to determine your true undertone. If you have ivory/beige skin, you will typically have one of three basic undertones: olive, yellow, or pink. One of the most common mistakes that women with ivory/beige skin make is choosing a foundation that has too much of a pink undertone, which actually has an aging effect. A  yellow undertone foundation actually is the best choice for beige/ivory skin because it warms the skin a bit and adds a little color. Deeper skin tones undertones can range from yellow to golden orange to true brown. The depth level of the skin is how light or dark it appears to the naked eye. The paler you are, the lighter the depth level; the darker the skin, the deeper the depth. You never want to choose a foundation that is too light or too dark.

Foundations have truly come a long way. Many women are scared of wearing foundation because they think it is going to give then a pancake effect; however today's formulations are so vast and advanced that the "pancake" effect is not the norm. There are foundations that come in a variety of coverages, which you can determine which is best for your needs. Consider your skin type as well. Oily skins can benefit from an oil-free foundation and dry skins will do well with one that has more moisture. There are foundations that deliver a more matte finish while others give a slight dewy glow. The newest craze is BB Creams (beauty balms), which give beautiful sheer coverage and even the skin tone, while delivering a barely-there finish and a subtle glow. Most foundations are buildable, which means you can add more or less product to achieve the look you want. There are liquids, creams, powders, and gel-like foundations which gives you a variety of options. You should definitely stop by a cosmetics counter and play with different products to find out what you like.

Remember that the tools you use to apply your foundation are critical to the level of flawlessness you get. I recommend investing in a quality foundation brush. Another wonderful foundation applicator is the beauty blender sponge, which you use to kind of bounce the foundation all over your skin. It gives one of the best foundation finishes I have seen.

I am always trying new products to see what I like the best, and right now my top three foundation recommendations are:

• Makeup Forever HD Foundation
• MAC Matchmaster Foundation
• MAC Studio Fix Foundation

These three foundations I have found to give excellent, buildable coverage and long lasting wear that stays all day, especially when used with setting powder and setting spray such as Urban Decay Deslick Oil Control Setting Spray. Give them a try!

Getting Creative with Color

Most people that know me know that I absolutely LOVE playing with colors when it comes to my eye makeup. While I love a neutral eye, most days I veer toward either some variation of the smoky eye or creative color looks using different combinations of hues from my palette. A lot of women are absolutely scared to use color and it's usually because they a) don't know how to apply eyeshadows correctly or b) they've seen bad examples of eye color looks that have discouraged them. Some ladies even feel like they can't wear certain colors because of their skin tone so they shy away from it altogether. As someone who loves color and gets inspiration from the world around me for color looks, as well as current trends, I want you to know that you CAN wear color and it CAN look good on you! The key is in the application and combinations of colors you choose. When eyeshadow colors are complementary and properly blended, they can turn your face into a beautiful canvas of creative expression.

Understanding complementary colors and color groupings is a great way to start creating looks because it will help you choose combinations that look good together. Every color on the color wheel has a complementary color that is its opposite on the wheel. For example, the color opposite red on the color wheel is green, which means that if you do a green eye look, you could have a tinge of red on the eye somewhere and it would be a good blend. Yellow and purple are complementary colors and blue and orange complement each other. In addition to complementary colors there are also split complementary colors, which are the colors on each side of the complement to a particular shade (you need to get a color wheel to see what these colors are). There are also other ways to combine colors such as using two colors that are two colors apart on the wheel or using a contrast of four different shades on the wheel.

A great way for beginners to start using color is by creating what is called a monochromatic look. A monochromatic look is one that uses any shade, tint, or tone of one color. For example, you may want to do a monochromatic look using purple shades. A great way to incorporate a monochrome purple look would be to use a light lavender shade on the lid, a deep purple in the crease of the eye, and a medium toned purple to blend out the dark shade toward the brow bone. Then an even lighter pale purple can be used as a highlight on the brow bone. You can apply this color strategy to any color eyeshadow and it is a great way to start using color without getting too complicated. Analogous color schemes are ones that use shades that are adjacent to each other on the color wheel such as red and orange, orange and yellow, or yellow and green. I find analogous color schemes to be particularly beautiful when blended well.

As with ANY eyeshadow look, the tools you use are going to be key. So make sure you invest in a large flat eyeshadow brush to apply lid colors, a rounded crease brush for your crease colors, and a fluffy eyeshadow brush to blend out any harsh lines so there is a seamless transition between shades.

This is just a basic introduction to using color and I will be discussing this more in upcoming blogs. But don't be scared to try different shades besides the basic neutral/nude tones. Consider your eye and hair color and experiment with different looks! Certain shades bring out the details of your eyes and their unique color and can really make your eyes pop. You will discover that when you start incorporating color into your makeup wardrobe, your creativity will soar and you'll find yourself trying things you never imagined! Hopefully you've been inspired to try something different and take your makeup looks to the next level. Stay beautiful!!

Using the Right Tools: The Secret to Flawless Makeup

When it comes to the final results of makeup application, I can't stress the importance of using the right tools. From foundations to eyeshadows, the type of brushes you use are going to make the difference in how makeup lays down on your skin, and the finish you achieve. If you are doing makeup for a photo shoot or other event where your face is going to be on display, it is imperative that your makeup looks flawless in all types of lighting. Your applicators and the tools you use, along with high quality products are the key.

I've definitely learned through trial and error what tools are best for what. Doing makeup is an ever-evolving process and you learn as you go. Here is a list of my top makeup application tools:

• Sephora airbrush foundation brush
• Sephora airbrush concealer brush
• Sponge makeup wedges and sponge applicators
• Beauty blender
• Powder Puff
• Rounded crease brush and angled crease brush
• Large flat eyeshadow brush
• Eyeliner brush
• Blush brush
• Kabuki brush
• Angled contouring brush
• Fan brush
• Fluffy eyeshadow brush for blending
• Smudge brush
• Stippling brush like the MAC 187 brush
• Eyebrow brush

My brush collection includes many more brushes than these but the brushes and applicators listed here are my top go-tos. Here some makeup tips that will help you get the most out of your products:

• For foundation application use a foundation brush with densely packed bristles that allows you to buff the product into your skin in a circular motion, which gives a smooth, even finish. Another option is the Beauty Blender which is a small, hand held specially designed sponge that you moisten and then use to sponge foundation into the skin. 
• A concealer brush such as Sephora's platinum collection airbrush concealer brush is ideal for flawlessly buffing concealer into the under eye area (cream or liquid).
• Instead of using a big fluffy brush to swirl loose powder on your face after applying foundation, opt for a powder puff and gently press the powder into the skin with the puff. This seals the foundation rather than disrupting it through swirling a brush over the face after foundation application. You will also find that applying powder with a puff will cause your makeup to look fresh longer. This is really important for the flawless look necessary for photo shoots. 
• A rounded crease brush is essential for achieving a seamless, blended look in the crease of the eye. This is my favorite eyeshadow brush!
• Use a quality blush brush to apply powder blush to the apples of the cheeks.
• Makeup wedges are great for applying a lighter shade of powder to the the undereye area to set concealer that you've applied there. Then sweep off the excess powder with a fan brush. 
• Use a fine eyeliner brush to apply gel eyeliner precisely and create a winged cat eye effect
• A densely bristled angled eyebrow brush is ideal for apply brow powder to your brows to fill in sparse hairs. Don't draw your eyebrows on! Use a light hand to create a bit of shape with an eyebrow pencil and then do the majority of the filling in with a good brow powder. I like MAC eyebrow pencil in Spiked and NYX eyebrow cake powder kit.

I encourage everyone to visit Ulta or Sephora and pick up some of these brushes and applicators and try them out at home. The brushes can be a bit pricey but it is worth the investment. The sponges and puffs can be purchased at Ulta for under $10. You will be amazed at the difference in how your makeup looks! 

Blush It Up!

There is nothing like a fresh flush of pink or peach on your cheeks to give your skin a healthy glow! Blush is probably one of the most important components of completing your look because it adds a slight pop of color that looks beautiful. There are a variety of different types of blush that allow you to get that pop of color in different ways so you will want to familiarize yourself with them as well as how to most effectively apply them so they look natural and flawless. The formula, texture, and finish of a blush makes the difference in whether your face ends up being a masterpiece or a mess!

Blush can be sheer in coverage or more heavy depending on the formula you use and how you apply it. Unless you are going to be on stage performing, you will want your blush to add a slight flush of color that is definitely noticeable, but not overbearing. If you want more color intensity remember that you can build the color up. It is always better to start off light and build as you go, rather than apply too much product to your face and then have to try and tone it down. Let's look at the different types of blush and how to apply each:

·         Powder blush is pigment with a color base and is the most popular choice for most women because it is the easiest to control and use. It also has a HUGE range of shades. Powder blush is applied with a blush brush which is a soft brush that allows you to dust the product on your cheeks. Blush should always be applied to the "apples" of your cheeks, which you can locate by smiling. Use a light hand when applying powder blush and dust the blush onto your cheeks, sweeping the color upward toward your temples. Benefits of pressed powder blush are that it is great for oily and combination skin because it provides a matte finish and the end result is very natural when it is blended properly into the skin. Always apply powder products on top of other powder products and not on top of creams. I always set my foundation with powder before applying powder blush.

·         Cream blush is actually one of my favorite types of blush because it really creates that glow from within look that we all love. I love it because it can give a nice dewy finish to the skin if applied without foundation underneath, OR when it is applied prior to powdering your face I find that it is just the right color payoff. Cream blush is a pigment in a cream base and is a great choice for normal or dry skin but not for oily skin or skin that has large pores. It is very blendable as well and because you can apply it with your fingers directly to your cheeks and blend it in, you can create a really natural look. If you wear foundation, remember that cream products should always be used on top of or under other cream products, never on top of powders. If I am wearing cream blush, I typically apply it to the apples of my cheeks after I have applied foundation. Then I set my face with a light dusting of powder that allows the color of the blush to show through.

·         Gel blush is composed of pigments wrapped in silicone particles and is best for people with normal to dry skin. It easily smooths over bare skin to create a sheer, translucent wash of color that is very natural. Not a good choice at all for people with oily skin. You can apply it with your fingers or a sponge.

·         Liquid blush is actually more like a tint that lasts for several hours because it temporarily stains the skin. Some tints also come in stick form and have a similar effect. You have to work quickly when using tints/stains because they take effect on the skin fairly quickly. This is typically a waterproof product.

As far as my fave blush brands go, my top picks for powder blush are MAC, Bobbi Brown, and Nars. MAC and Bobbi Brown also have great cream blushes that are regulars in my makeup collection. Two great brands for tints/stains/gels are Tarte and Stila. These are just a few of the MANY fabulous brands that carry these great products. Experiment and try different ones so you can see what you like best!   

Makeup Artist Spotlight: Mally Roncal

When it comes to well-known makeup artists, there are several whose work I particularly like. The makeup artist spotlight is something I wanted to do to highlight different artists that stand out to me in the industry. Mally Roncal is one of my favorite artists for a few reasons. First, she's fabulous! Spunky with a live personality, she really gets me excited about makeup every time I see her on television, whether it's doing a live demo on The Today Show, or on QVC where she promotes and sells her products.  Not to mention her skills are amazing. I love a clean, fresh, exquisitely done face and that's what marks her style. Smoky eyes, strong brows, and neutral lips is one of her signature looks that I love. I remember seeing her do a demo on eyebrows and it really challenged me to step my eyebrow game up!

Mally is a prominent celebrity artist whose client list includes Beyonce, J-Lo, Mary J. Blige, and many more. Like any enterprising artist seeking to expand her sphere of influence, she has her own makeup line and her products are a-mazing (I particularly like her City Chick Smoky Eye Kit). She's a true artist who epitomizes femininity and beauty to me, which is why I chose her for my first artist spotlight. Check out her web sites http://www.mallybeauty.com/ and http://www.mallyroncal.com/ to see her work, products, demos, and more. Ciao for now Beautifuls!

Welcome to the World of Beauty!

Hello Beautifuls! I was at the MAC counter today browsing the newest collection that was just released today and the artist who was assisting me suggested I start a beauty/makeup blog after I told her that I was an avid collector of makeup. I don't buy makeup on a "need to" basis; I buy it on a "want it all" basis! Yes, I am a self-proclaimed makeup addict who actually collects makeup just because. Each collection that comes out from my favorite brands just gives me more ideas and opportunities to create, and re-create, which is another reason why I scoop up the latest collections without hesitation. As a portrait artist, I find that doing makeup is not too different from drawing, shading, and accentuating features in an illustration, except it's on a 3-D canvas. I guess that's why it comes so easily for me, and also why I love it so much!

 Not only does makeup allow me to express my creativity as an artist, but I just enjoy adding new colors, textures, formulas, and brands to my collection on a regular basis. I try everything! As I left the counter (with several items of course), I started thinking about doing a beauty blog and how fun it would be to share information on products, techniques, makeup artist profiles, and just anything generally related to makeup and beauty with my audience! This blog is for you, my lovely readers and my objective is to just provide you with a fun, informative blog that will inspire you to play with color, try some of the fabulous products out there, and hopefully pique your interest in the world of beautification (if that's even a word :)). I am a firm believer that beauty starts from the inside and works its way to the outside. Makeup is simply a way to enhance what's already there. I invite you to join me on this journey as I explore the world of makeup even further. Let's make beautiful happen!